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The steps below are designed to help resolve substrate and
location preferences and substrate and location aversions that are commonly
experienced by cats. These steps are intended to help reinforce a cat's
appropriate litter box use. Remember that the feline social system may also
affect the behavior of a cat that is not using the litter box. Note any
interactions that might be compounding the problem.
- All affected areas must be cleaned with an odor
eliminator.
- After cleaning, cover affected areas with heavy-gauge plastic
both to change the tactile sensation for the cat and to prevent further
penetration in the event of elimination.
- Encourage the client to use multiple litter boxes, generally
one more than there are cats, unless there are more than five cats; large
numbers of cats may render the stimulus too strong. These litter boxes should
be placed in a variety of locations and be of a variety of styles (open,
covered, deep, shallow, big, small).
- Litter should be scooped daily, and most litters should be
dumped totally every other day. The exceptions to this are the newer, clumpable
litters; these do not have to be discarded as frequently but do need to be
"topped up." Many cats differ in their preference for litter depth. Boxes
should be washed weekly. Some old boxes may be so permeated with scent that
they should be discarded.
- A variety of litters should be offered to the cat in a variety
of boxes. If the cat is using soft substances, consider softer litters: No. 3
blasting sand, playground sand, shredded newspaper or toweling, sawdust, or
wood chips (not cedar). Many clients at the Behavior Clinic at the Veterinary
Hospital of the University of Pennsylvania (VHUP) are now using recyclable,
clumping litters with almost universally excellent results. Be creative and
persistent. Consider trying one of the new trays where urine passes through
rocks onto a pad below. Watch the cat and find out what works. Use this
information to plot your strategy. Some cats prefer very little or no
litter.
- Cats are not trained to litter boxes; this is a behavior that
develops in the absence of human intervention as kittens. Accordingly, a cat
with an elimination problem cannot be trained to use a litter box; however, it
can be encouraged to use a specific substrate by taking the cat to the litter
box frequently, waiting with it, and praising it whenever it uses the box.
- If the cat is observed squatting outside the box, punishment
works if the cat is startled within the first 30 to 60 seconds of the onset of
the behavior (that includes circling, facial expressions, and digging) and the
startle is sufficient to make the cat abort the behavior and leave. Foghorns,
water pistols, whistles, and tins of pennies all work with some cats. Foghorns
are usually inappropriate in apartments, although clients derive much
satisfaction from their use. Regardless, physical punishment, including rubbing
the cat's nose in the soiled area, is useless after the fact and is potentially
dangerous to the client and injurious to the cat during the act.
- Some cats may need to be confined to a restricted area at
first. If you do this, make sure that the cat has the same choice of litters
and boxes mentioned previously and that you give much attention to the cat
during its confinement. If the cat was very social beforehand, confinement must
be arranged to meet the cat's social needs. If the behavior of the other cats
in the household changes when one is isolated, this hints at a social problem
that may need to be addressed as part of the treatment for the elimination
disorder. Access to the rest of the house can be expanded once the cats are
using litter appropriately in the confined area. It is important that the
expanded access be closely supervised both because of the poten-tial relapses
and because of potential social problems that may not have been previously
recognized. A bell sewn to the cat's collar can act as a reminder that
supervision is necessary. Access should be gradually expanded—do not give
the cat free access to the entire house all at once after 6 weeks of
confinement. If the cat has truly learned and demonstrated a preference for a
litter or box style, this will be generalized to the rest of the house if the
reintroductions are gradual. Remember that the number of boxes still must be
maintained at the increased number and all cleanliness rules still apply.
Antianxiety medications may help some cats that otherwise are
unable to succeed in this program. Remember, if it is decided that medication
could benefit your cat, you need to use it in addition to the behavior
modification, not instead of it. |
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Checklist
- General
- Scoop litter boxes daily
- Dump litter at least every other day
- Wash the litter box in hot, soapy water once a week; use no
ammonia products, and make sure that the box is well rinsed and dried
- Clean soiled areas with an odor eliminator; repeat and
cover with plastic to prevent resoiling
- Take the cat to the box often and praise for scratching
and/or use of substrate (If this scares the cat, do not do it.)
- Provide one more box than the number of cats
- Change litter types, depths, and box styles
- Location
- Follow general instructions
- Place a scent deterrent in the area (mint or
deodorant-scented soap or something you know the cat dislikes)
- Place food and/or water dishes on the spot(s)
- Place a litter box on the spot
- Substrate
- Follow general instructions
- Try different litters Types tried:
- ____________________
- ____________________
- ____________________
- ____________________
- Try with and without litter box liners
- Try covered versus open boxes
- Try different depths of litter, including no litter
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